05/27/2010, Cartagena
Cartagena was a fantastic experience. At a distance, the
skyscrapers surprised me as I had mostly heard about the old town. We
made a reasonable arrival time yesterday, which was helped by that we
could enter through the opening in the rock barrier in the Boca Grande
Straight with a guaranteed depth of 8 feet; not much margin to Queen's
Ransom's 7.2 feet draft! It was a rising tide, so we didn't need to take
an extra two hours to go through the main ship channel of the Boca
Chica Straight. We asked the Cartagena Port Authority for a tidal
reading at the barrier. They tried to be very supportive, though they
didn't manage to provide us with that specific piece of information.
We dropped anchor off the Club Nautico in the inner bay. We had made a
booking of a berth there, did not have one when we arrived at our
planned arrival time. However, there are also clear advantages to not be
at the dock, but alone at anchor. The marina which is run by John was
very generally very helpful to us. The first people I saw when I got
ashore was little half Swedish Teddy who was there with his mum
Roseanne; Teddy had played a lot with our boys in St Lucia. We needed a
ship's agent as you are not allowed to deal with the customs and
immigration authorities directly. It was with some trepidation we let
David of Motores y Velas agency take our passports and ship papers away
with the promise to bring them back the same time next day. He did!
The sun set behind the domes of the old town and its last rays were
reflected in the windows of the skyscrapers of Bocagrande; our view from
the anchorage of this beautiful spectacle was uninterrupted. After some
shopping and our traditional beer at the aft deck to celebrate our safe
arrival, we set out into this gorgeous city in the balmy evening. It
is a UNESCO world heritage sight. The old town is surrounded by massive
city walls, Las Murallas, we had a drink on top of the old ramparts from
where we could see the ships out on Caribbean Sea, the old buildings
and the lit up church domes and towers. Not surprisingly, it became a
late night for us having enjoyed the good quality food and the night
spots of Cartagena.
We spent today walking many kilometers up and down the streets of the
inner city. The San Diego neighbourhood of the the old town was
especially atmospheric, as it is more of a mix of a lively city and a
world heritage site than its more up market sibling El Centro. It was
hot, as always. The Spaniards turned Cartagena into their main port of
the Caribbean and gateway to South America. During the 16th century it
was the victim of many raids (including by Sir Francis Drake) and fires,
which lead to the construction of impressive forts which together with
the strategic lay out of its water ways made it easily defendable. You
have to pass through a few bays with narrow straights to get there. It
is interesting to read the story of the city's successful defence in
1741 against a British attacking force of 186 ships and 10 times the
manpower of the Spanish.
Hans, as always, went on his own to the massive local market Mercado
Bazurto, which is a 24/7 affair with everything conceivable on sale. It
was certainly less polished than the tidy old town. Small alleys covered
with canvas to protect the sales from the sun. Keep your hand on your
wallet, your camera, and your cellphone, was the general advice.
Overall Cartagena felt safe, as long as you know what you are doing such
as hoisting up your dinghy at night. After a short afternoon nap, we
once again sampled the excellent cuisine and nightlife of this truly
remarkable city until the early hours! La Santissimo, the name of the
restaurant, served delicious food originating from the local Cartagena
and national Colombian kitchen.
I know Imelda is envious to not get to visit Cartagena this time, but I
have promised we will do so as soon as practically possible! I cannot
recommend Cartagena any stronger, it is a true delight!